The Lunchbox #8...and it's more full than ever
We've got dangerous sauces, an intriguing pizza and stress-free hosting pt II
What I’m currently consuming
The Sauce: Poon’s WO Sauce
This paragraph comes with a warning: DON’T READ ANY FURTHER if you have addictive tendencies. I am about to describe the most more-ish sauce I’ve ever encountered, blowing Sriracha, ketchup and my entire collection of hot sauces out the water. Based on the Hong Kong classic, XO sauce, we’re talking umami in a pot. This version, based on an old family recipe from the iconic Cantonese chef Bill Poon, has base layers of wind-dried bacon (which the family have been producing for generations) laced with dried shrimp and (very elusive) dried scallops, shallots, garlic, chilli and tomato. Everything is cooked down into an intense, jammy, spicy, salty, sweet, luxurious nectar. And it’s spectacularly versatile. It’ll add its magic to a piece of grilled white fish, roast veg, every rice dish I can think of, a cheese sandwich and my personal weakness: fried egg and toast (see below). Buy it. Eat it. Try to live without it.
The Dish: Dosa at Saravana Bhavan
I am thrilled to announce I have found a restaurant in London specialising in the crispy, fermented lentil and rice pancake, dosa. They’re one of my favourite things to eat, but great ones are hard to find. So when I spotted a friend pictured with a dosa larger than a toddler on her plate, I had to find it. And Saravana Bhavan, a vegetarian chain focussing on South Indian staples like dosas, idlis, uttapams, and vadas, was everything I wanted it to be. The dosa was massive and crispy, the chutneys fresh and fragrant and the dal perfectly spiced. It felt like the most wonderful, authentic South Indian experience. They have branches across London, (across the world, in fact) so I shall be doing a grand tour of them all. My top tip is to order the ‘paper’ dosa to get your toddler-sized version.
The Show: Chef’s Table, Pizza
This Netflix show feels like it’s on everyone’s lips at the moment. And I think we can all agree the stars of the show are Chris Bianco, his smokey treacle voice and his intriguing signature pizza, Rosa. Chris, a quiet but charismatic chef, has put Phoenix firmly on the food map with his world-famous Pizzeria Bianco. He’s hailed as having changed the game in the US, spearheading the artisanal pizza movement by encouraging chefs and consumers to care more about the quality of their ingredients:
“There is nothing complicated about what I do," he says. "Sicilian oregano, the best. Organic flour. Only San Marzano tomatoes, whole, pulpy, not sauce. I use purified water and make my own mozzarella like I used to in the Bronx. Salt? I only use fleur de sel.”
And the Rosa. It’s fascinatingly simple. Red onions, rosemary, pistachios, Parmesan. That’s it. Inspired by a mesmerising focaccia he ate in Liguria, Chris has claimed people initially didn’t get it “people think there's a secret ingredient or combo, but sometimes things just make sense together". I love this idea of a few ingredients making magic together and hearing him speak so passionately about it is ALMOST as thrilling as tasting it in real life.
UPDATE: Let’s do Lunch
The book has been doing the rounds! It’s been very exciting to see the recipes featured in The Times, The Week and interviews in Bustle and the Guardian. I also absolutely love this piece in Stylist out today on speedy autumn lunches. They’re featuring my Dumpling salad with sweet and spicy rainbow slaw (above), Little gem salad with grilled grapes, blue cheese and walnuts (cooked grapes!!) and Sweet and sour butter bean, radish and grilled spring onion salad. Click here to get the recipes - all of them are super-speedy, seasonal and use affordable ingredients.
I’d love to see anything you make from the book, so keep putting them up and tagging me!
Something to fill you up
Creamy Sun-dried Tomato & Red Pepper Fusilli
This is my Summer to Autumn segue pasta. It’s got those bright, summery ingredients, but gives you all the warming, comforting feelings you get with cold-weather dishes. You’re using tomatoes and peppers, but they’re the preserved variety, straight from your store-cupboard. Make this anytime you want to transport yourself to sunny scenes.
And the best bit? The sauce takes 10 minutes to whip up while you boil your pasta.
My how-to video is here.
Serves 2
3 tbsp olive oil
50g sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
120g jarred peppers (I used Seggiano), finely chopped
¾ tsp hot paprika
4 tbsp crème fraiche or double cream
½ small bunch of basil, chopped
½ small bunch of mint, chopped
30g grated Parmesan, plus extra, to serve
300g fusilli
Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and start cooking the pasta.
Warm up the oil in a medium pan over a medium-low heat and add the sun-dried tomatoes. Fry gently for a minute or so to soften them, then add the garlic. Continue to fry gently, stirring until the garlic begins to colour, then add the peppers, stir well so they get a chance to absorb some garlicky-ness and add 75ml of water.
Leave to simmer for 5 minutes to soften everything, then add the paprika and the crème fraiche and return to a simmer. Stir through the herbs and Parmesan, followed by the cooked pasta and a splash of the cooking water. Keep cooking gently, stirring, until the pasta has absorbed the sauce, then transfer to plates, scatter with a little extra Parmesan, and eat.
Something to finish you off
Grape & Fennel Seed Olive Oil Cake
Have you discovered the joy of cooked grapes yet? No? Well what are you waiting for - they’re not just for snacking, people! Not only do they look very pretty, but you get that juicy pop when you bite into them. Try them paired with fennel seeds - you’re in for a delicious surprise.
I like to make this with fragrant Muscat grapes, but the truth is, any variety works beautifully. Don’t be worried about the seeded varieties either, you’ll barely notice ‘em.
Serves 6-8
200g light brown sugar
2 eggs
Zest of 1 lemon
175g olive oil
65g ground almonds
160g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp salt
200g grapes, ideally black but mix is nice too
2 tbsp icing sugar
2 tbsp demerara sugar
2 tsp fennel seeds
Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/350F/gas 6 and grease and line a 26 x 20cm (or equivalent) baking tray or tin.
Beat the sugar and eggs for 1-2 minutes until you get thick ribbons, then zest in the lemon and slowly whisk in the oil.
Stir together the almonds, flour, baking powder and salt then fold into wet ingredients. Pour into the tray.
Toss the grapes in the icing sugar then scatter over the cake batter, lightly pressing them down. Sprinkle over the demerara and the fennel seeds and place in the oven for 50-60 mins until an inserted skewer comes out clean. Cool on a rack and eat with ice cream or double cream.
How to host a dinner party without breaking a sweat - and even enjoy it!
(Part 2)THE NO-STRESS MENU
*If you haven’t read Part 1 in my last newsletter, have a read. It lays out the principles of sweat-free entertaining. The key point being that your enjoyment of the occasion is of utmost importance and I believe with a few easy tricks, you can cook an amazing three-course menu AND have a rollicking good time. See below for some ideas on what dishes can help get you there.
STARTER: Cold food is your friend here.
There are millions of starter options that don’t need to be hot and so can be prepared in advance. Make these in the 60-90 minutes before people arrive and have them ready on the table.
A substantial salad: eg Panzanella, Fattoush, Caesar
TOP TIP: put your salad dressing at the bottom of the bowl and toss just before you serve it.
A mozzarella/burrata cheese with a seasonal fruit: eg Mozzarella with figs, rocket & extra-virgin olive oil
A few platters of cured meat or paté with pickles: eg Chicken liver paté with cucumber pickles and crackers
Smoked fish plus complimentary salad/slaw: eg Smoked mackerel whipped with crème fraiche with fennel, apple & chicory salad
Plate everything is you’re worried about quantities, but if not, just chuck everything on big plates and let people help themselves.
Another fail-safe option is a room-temperature cooked vegetable such as grilled asparagus, roast aubergine, boiled whole artichoke, roasted red peppers and steamed purple sprouting broccoli and…
A dip/creamy/yoghurty/egg-based sauce
Herbs and a crunch - seeds, toasted nuts, pangrattato
eg Steamed purple sprouting broccoli, home-made humous, mint & dukkah
We can’t miss out soup here, can we? This is a brilliant hot starter as you can just warm it up before serving. I’d suggest something smooth n’silky that’s not too filling such as: celeriac & apple; mushroom, thyme & cream; or a beetroot borscht.
And a type of bread, ALWAYS BREAD. It’s a reassuring presence, needed to mop up sauce and great for those picky eaters (though I hope you don’t have friends like that).
MAIN: Reheat Reheat Reheat.
In an ideal world, you would prepare the main course (and dessert) the morning of (or day before if you’re a top level pro) your party and have it 1) slowly cooking in a low oven or slow-cooker OR 2) ready to bake in the oven for when people arrive. *I strongly advise against things that need last minute cooking as it takes you away from the fun and adds a dollop of stress which we’re trying to avoid here.
This means you can then go away and do something nice before coming back about 60-90 minutes before people arrive to make the starter. I like to break up my day like this, otherwise you can easily spend an hours cooking and end up in no mood for socialising when the time comes.
Ideas for this could be:
Slow-cooking: Coq au vin, Slow-cooked beef shin with red wine & herbs, Chilli con Carne, Pork shoulder with fennel & Lemon, Seven-spice lamb shoulderReady for the oven: Fish pie, Lasagne, Chicken and leek pie, Thai green curry, Moussaka, Aubergine parmigiana.
SIDES: You don’t need too many!
I like to make these in advance and reheat after I’ve cleared the starter plates. I keep them quite neutral so the main is the star of the show and you don’t have to many flavours fighting on the plate.
They tend to be one or two of the following:A braised green
Roast root veg
Interesting leaves such a rocket, watercress or radicchio
A potato dish
I’m sorry to throw this at you, but roast potatoes and chips are a big NO from me . Roast potatoes really should be served peak crispy and it’s just so tricky to get that when you have a room full of people. Mash? Hell YES! Potato gratin? 100%. Boiled? Please do!
My go-to every time is a green (spinach, cavolo nero, spring greens, hispi cabbage, savoy cabbage), garlic, fennel seeds, chilli and olive oil. You can use any leafy green and the combo of flavours works with almost all cuisines.
Blanch the green in a deep pan, drain it and wipe out the pan to make the fried garlic mix.
In that same pan, gently fry sliced garlic, fennel seeds and chilli in lots of oil until the garlic has slightly coloured on the edges. Take off the heat and leave to cool.
Just before I serve the main, I turn the heat up under garlic oil again and stir in the blanched green, tossing until it’s warm and coated in the oil.
Here are my thoughts on non veg sides:
Rice is pretty easy-going as you can make it an hour in advance and keep it warm with a cocked lid on top.
Pasta and noodles are a pain for large numbers (you need big pans and perfect timing).
Grains such as freekeh, cous cous and pearled spelt are your friends for same reason as rice.
DESSERT: The easy win.
This is a bit of an easier course to get right as there are so many options. I’d advise keeping it quick and easy, especially if you’re got a starter to prepare as well. Extravagant and OTT is always fun, but people rarely have as much room as they wish they did. Of course, if you’re only doing 2 courses then go for it here! But same principles apply regarding temperatures, below.
Am not going to cover cheese (you got this!) suffice to say, don’t forget to get it out the fridge before you serve it. (And are we eating it before dessert or after, I can never decide??)
Make your dessert in advance and serve it room temperature or from the fridge. Yes, you can do a warm pie or tart, but it’ll involve getting up from the table to attend to it just as you’re beginning to relax and enjoy yourself, so why bother?
Ice cream and sorbet are easy, but you do need to make sure they’re at peak scoop-ability when the time comes and that’s not an easy feat.
Any dessert accessories such as double cream, crème fraiche or yoghurt, pop into bowls and stick in the fridge for when you’re ready.
Ideas for this could be: Individual chocolate mousse; Lemon posset; Seasonal fruit tart; Chocolate truffles; Poached seasonal fruit & a biscuit. My absolute number one favourite dessert is warm madeleines:
Make the batter before everyone comes and have your madeleine tray pre-greased.
As you clear your mains, spoon/pipe the batter into the trays, place in a 180C oven for 8-10 minutes, then serve piping hot to the table as everyone goes ooooh and ahhhh. A delicious, Proustian ending to a stress-free party.